On sulfites, wine and headaches, and the misconceptions that exist

(PennLive) - A story that appeared last week on the site of a local news organization profiled several men who are making mead, an alcoholic beverage created by fermenting honey with water, and frequently fruits, spices, grains or hop. Regional mead makers such as Millstone Cellars in Monkton, Md., are expanding the scope of this beverage, which is starting to find its way into the mainstream on the heels of cider.

One of the principals was quoted in this story as saying that "wine usually has sulfide added to it. We don’t add anything to [our mead].”

I'm guessing he meant sulfites (or it was just transcribed incorrectly), which are commonly introduced to stop fermentation and might also be added to wine as a preservative. It's often blamed for the headaches that people complain about after drinking wine.

I sent the quote and story to some of my contacts with a question about how much sulfites can be blamed for headaches. I also included a link to this explanation of sulfites, one I thought was comprehensive and yet written for the layman, and asked for reaction to it.

I'll post throughout the day the responses I received, starting with this long one from state enologist Denise Gardner. I'll put in bold the paragraphs that are less technically oriented.

She writes:

I always cringe when I read quotes like this.

First, we add potassium metabisulfite, which is commonly shortened to “sulfites” or “sulfur dioxide.” As you pointed out, the term “sulfides” is chemically different.

The post you sent is fairly accurate… although a little vague. He gives the EU maximum levels, with no mention of the U.S. probably because the U.S. has one standard total SO2 content: ALL wine processed in the U.S., regardless of type or style, has to be below 350 ppm total SO2 – free and bound. That’s TTB regulated, I believe. And, in general, red wines do usually contain less total sulfites, or, at least, they require less to sustain stability over long periods of time.