Maryland wine industry sees tremendous growth over last decade

(Heraldmailmedia) - Maryland’s wine industry, while not a powerhouse in the world of vino, has seen tremendous growth over the past decade, and the state has the potential to become a major center of wine production in time, according to experts.

But to realize that potential, the state has a number of challenges to overcome — competition from better known wine-producing states, the perception that Maryland produces low quality wines and the impact of a changing climate on grapes.

“If you look at California and where they were, say, 40 years ago, it looks a lot like what it does (in Maryland) now,” said Chris Kent, the winemaker at Woodhull Wine Cellars in Baltimore County, which has been in operation for 30 years. “It’s fun to think the next generation could be something like California became.”

Maryland wineries have increased sales every year since 2001, jumping from $6.1 million to $24.4 million by 2011, according to an analysis of bottle sales by the Maryland Wineries Association.

The number of wineries throughout the state has ballooned as well, from about a dozen in 2000 to the 64 currently operating in the state. People inquire about opening wineries daily, said Briana Berg of the Maryland Wineries Association.

“(There’s been) a significant growth in a short period of time,” Kent said. “You can’t help but think that people are more aware of the local wine scene just because there is so much out there.”

Unlike Virginia — which has extensive backing from the state tourism industry, prestigious festivals and awards to draw interest to state-made wines and lots of private investment — Maryland is still attempting to find its footing in the wine world.

Staking a claim within the national market is especially difficult. California wines dominate both domestic wine sales and the public’s idea of American wine.

Simply put, when consumers think Maryland, they think crabs, not wine.

“It’s a very local market primarily based on the day traveller coming in for the weekend and getting a bottle or two,” said Antonio Busalacchi, an advanced sommelier at consulting company Vino Veritas and a climate scientist at the University of Maryland. “It’s very much at the cellar door.”