Jean-Charles Boisset soaks up winemaking roots

(SFGate) - One thing you'll never hear about Jean-Charles Boisset is that he's a bore.

The trans-Atlantic transplant, who hails from a historic winemaking family in France, is a whirlwind of energy, ideas and enthusiasm. He and his sister, Nathalie, combined the family's holdings in Burgundy to create Domaine de la Vougeraie. He instituted organic winemaking practices there, at his properties in the south of France and at his Napa Valley winemaking estates as well.

Boisset Family Estates, of which he is president, comprises 28 wineries in California and France, including De Loach and Raymond vineyards and Buena Vista Winery stateside. He is also the father of twin girls with his wife, vintner Gina Gallo, who hails from a historic family herself as granddaughter of wine pioneer Julio Gallo.

All of this should keep Boisset incredibly busy, but he made time on a recent Friday to discuss his personal style over a sip of sparkling wine (JCB 69 rosé brut) at the couple's home on Wappo Hill, not long before guests were expected for dinner. In the home, previously owned by Margrit and the late Robert Mondavi, Boisset and Gallo have put their own eclectic stamp on the interiors with surrealist art and contemporary furniture. One would expect nothing less from two great minds bent on innovation and self-expression.