California: In Paso Robles, vineyards' thirst pits growers against residents

(LATimes) - With little if any rainfall, the Paso Robles region must rely on an ancient aquifer for water. As the water table drops and wells go dry, residents seek to curb use by the area's increasingly popular wineries.

While the world clamors for more Paso Robles wine, rural residents like Denise Smith yearn for something far more precious: local water.

The retired teacher is one of dozens of homeowners in parched northern San Luis Obispo county whose wells have run dry.

Unable to afford a deeper well at a cost of $30,000, she trucks in water every few weeks. Meals are eaten on paper plates. Showers last 45 seconds. Toilets are seldom flushed.

Where did the water go? Smith and other residents say it's flowing freely into the area's signature industry — wine.

No longer is a regional secret, the Paso Robles appellation the fancy of wine lovers near and far. Verdant vineyards now dominate the golden pastoral landscape, many with tasting rooms that contribute to a $1.2-billion local tourism industry.

This surge in popularity has caused wine grape acreage in the county to more than triple in 15 years to 36,550 acres — and there are estimates of up to 8,000 acres more being prepared. With little to no rain on much of that land, drip irrigation is widespread.

That's strained the area's primary source of water, an ancient aquifer that covers 790 square miles and is large