FRANCE: MARGAUX TRIALING “VOODOO” BIODYNAMICS

(TheDrinksBusiness) - Bordeaux first growth Château Margaux is experimenting with the “voodoo” of biodynamics, according its managing director Paul Pontallier. During an en primeur tasting of the 2012 vintage at the château last week, Pontallier told the drinks business: “We’re currently looking into biodynamics and seeing how it compares to organics.

“I have a hard time believing that the voodoo will bring anything extra to the wines as I’m not a religious person, but the only way to find out is to try.”  Pontallier went on to compare biodynamics to a religion: “People believe in it, so they think it’s the way to go; that their god is better than their neighbour’s god. “I haven’t seen much of a difference yet to be honest and am looking at it objectively.

I find it all a bit weird and it makes me laugh sometimes, but we have a biodynamic consultant who guides us and tells us what to do,” he said. In contrast to his doubts about biodynamics, Pontallier is adamant that Margaux must take an increasingly organic approach to viticulture.

“It’s not a religious choice, but long-term, we have to go increasingly organic – this is the way forward for us. “The fact that we are now almost entirely organic and yet didn’t lose a single berry in 2012 is proof that we can do it. Last year was set to be our first organic Château Margaux, but in the end we had to spray once,” he told db.